The art of weaving is exactly that—an art. It requires skill, precision and rhythm, which when repeated over and over, produces a delicate weave. Jamdani weaves, however, require more than this. Since the defining aspect of this textile are its rich motifs, which are all intricately added by hand, Jamdani is touted as the most advanced hand weaving technique in the world.
Each motif has to be inlaid into the fabric by adding denser threads to fine warp threads, and this process is so time intensive that on a usual day, an artisan can weave only between a quarter and one inch of fabric. That shockingly translates to a year if we’re looking at a handwoven Jamdani sari.
No wonder the traditional art of weaving Jamdani was declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013. Vogue sits down with the master of weaves, Gaurang Shah, who helps us understand the nuances of weaving this fabled fabric. Excerpts from the interview:
Can you tell us a bit about the origin and history of the Jamdani weave?
Sulaiman, a 9th-century Arab traveller, wrote of cotton fabrics made in the kingdom of Rahmi (erstwhile undivided Bengal) which were so fine they could pass through a signet ring. Around the 12th century, Islamic influences infused the fabric with countless motifs and colours. And through the magic of one inlaid thread—added discontinuously onto the loom—it turned into a surface for mesmerising patterns. The technique created motif-rich fabrics that bore poetic names like Shabnam(morning dew), Ab-i-rawan (flowing water) and Baftnama (woven wind). It was during the Mughal emperor Akbar’s reign that the art blossomed into its most exquisite form—the flowered muslin, Jamdani.
What makes Jamdani so special as a weave?
[bctt tweet=””Jamdani is an enduring craft; its specialism lies in the ability to integrate new techniques” Designer Gaurang in Vogue Interview” username=”enright_pr”]. From contrasting monotones of white-on-white, its palette has expanded into colourful, vibrant forms. While Jamdani began as cotton muslin, its weaves have incorporated threads of silk, silver, gold and more to create fascinating iterations. Today, Jamdani is done on various materials, without involving machinery.
This art has travelled far beyond its birthplace—Dhaka, Bangladesh (erstwhile undivided Bengal). We can find the finest Jamdani weavers in Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Rajasthan and Uttar Pradesh. The technique has gained unique features; it’s an art that displays an amazing variety.
Every piece I have created is my homage to the past masters who made Jamdani by infusing tradition with a spirit of experimentation. The skill of our weavers (over 70 per cent of whom are women), have the mastery to weave any pattern, no matter how intricate it is. Yet, like true artists, they keep pushing their craft.
